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Andrew
SpectatorThe BMC have made three grievous errors.
Firstly. Both the hillwalking and the climbing guidance are written from a “me, me” point of view and there is no reference in these to local communities / parking / future relationships.
Second. We see in the political sphere how any complex statement gets translated down to a simple headline or slogan. The BMC has produced complex climbing guidelines. It must know, or ought to realise, that this will get translated into “the BMC say climbing is OK” and many people will ignore the nuances.
Thirdly. The BMC have chosen a tactic of trying to weave and wriggle climbing to fit current guidelines. For example ” there will be numerous challenges in staying 2m apart from others and these need to be planned for in advance.” Who really believes that the majority of climbers, the majority of the time, can achieve this whilst doing all the cleaning etc etc. So either the BMC has got carried away and not paused to reflect how things will actually be, or they do realise folk often won’t succeed or bother, and they are happy to provide a fig leaf.
I would have preferred a BMC with the honesty, cojones, and priority to the national interest, to say that taking account of the practicalities and behaviour, we should for the time being stay our hand.
This is not the first time I have been disappointed with the BMC. Or the second time. Or even the third time. So the pedestal upon which I put them, is only a very small one. And right at the bottom of the garden
ANDREW
SpectatorThis is not about rock climbing. We should not think it is about us as climbers.
A small-scale hill famer may lose his livelihood if he falls ill, or may have vulnerable people at home. We should not presume to judge whether the fears of country people are justified: we do know they exist. At many locations parking and sometimes crag access depend on the tolerance of locals. We will all need that in the future. Hence I trust that simple courtesy will keep everyone away from the tiny roads and parking at places like Scugdale, Slipstones, Park Nab etc. (Especially if using two cars !!).
Numerous people have lost their jobs, or are about to. Many people live in flats or small houses without gardens. Whatever movement can be tolerated in the community, should first of all allow for such needs of work and simple local fresh air. If we risk resurgence of infections, then the penalty will be paid by the unemployed and by coop-ed up families.
I do not believe that it is possible in a practical situation, to carry out rock climbing whilst truthfully staying 2 metres distance and not sharing equipment. Given the precautions we see in industry and retailing where open, given that playgrounds remain closed, it seems to me, impossible to make such a claim. (Whatever words it is wrapped up in. Even if someone describes a convoluted process for hygiene, I don’t imagine it would in practice be maintained for very long).
So it is my own clear belief, that a decision to go climbing is a decision not to adhere to the guidelines. If that decision is multiplied across several thousand climbers, then I suppose that inevitably it will result in more infections. If the infection rate goes back up, so will unemployment and the problems of those bouncing off 4 walls.
Even in my own nice house and big garden, this is getting rather depressing. But until there are guidelines which clearly sanction repeated equipment exchange and proximity, I would feel very uncomfortable at the crag.
ANDREWSpectatorThe BMC statement today raises many questions about practicalities and hygiene. It is vague and very short on detail. I choose not to use Facebook so I may not see the broadcast. If you are ‘present” some questions to which answers might be welcome are below. Especially Question No 7.
ANDREW
(1) Is it recommended that climbers not in the same household travel separately (to maintain social distance ?) 2 metres distance is recommended on public transport but not possible in one car.
(2) If so, what is the likelyt impact at crags located on small country lanes with limited parking — ie assuming that there are twice or three times as many cars ? {That’s most of our crags of course ]. What does the BMC recommend as to relations with local residents ? Will climbers suffer reputational damage by visiting crags against the wishes of locals ?
(3) If I lead a climb, what do I now do when I reach the top ? Given that my second has handled all the rope, surely the BMC does not recommend that I then haul the rope in ?? That would be tatamount to shaking hands repeatedly with my second. ? So how can a lead climber hygenically make a belay or bring up a second ?
(4) When bringing up a second — say top roping, does the BMC recommend a stance 3 metres back from the crag edge, so as to maintain 2 metres minimum as the second tops out ? Are any problems anticipated with not being able to see or possibly hear the second ?
(5) Is it supposed that at each gear placement, the second will weight the rope and apply disinfectant before removing the gear ?(6) On many popular single pitch routes, a different climber may have ascended 5 minutes previously using all the same handholds. What is the detailed hygiene advice about handling rock holds immediately after a potentially infected person ?
(7) Does the BMC expect that the convoluted operations which seem necessary to maintain hygiene will be adopted and maintained by all climbers ?
SpectatorI think you.ve got it there John.
Climbers need to show that they understand wider priorities.The radio this evening carried “please stay away” messages from the Lake District. So i’d say, a bit of quiet discreet fairly local walking is as far as it should go
ANDREWSpectatorA couple of further points.
(i) You are only supposed to meet ONE other person not in your household. So walking group sizes will be only two maybe three people as a rule.
(ii) Residents in popular locations will not welcome numerous visitors and social distancing will be more difficult.
So the pointer is towards very low profile walking in carefully chosen places.Interesting article highlighted by Nick with thoughts for the future. It remains to be seen whether Government instructions will eventually go along such lines. All we have at the moment is what the Govt has announced today.
Andrew
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