A HIGHLAND TRIPTYCH

22 – 26 April 2026

1. Stravaiging

A blank on the map. An obvious through route, never walked or read about. A casual conversation............. Dave and I set out from Bridge of Orchy. Leaving the WHW throng at Victoria Bridge, we headed west.

West past the Hut at Clashgour, where I have many times left the trail to visit Stob a' Choire Odhar and Stob Ghabhar.

West up the river, past Loch Dochart with lunch on its peninsula surrounded by water.

West to the bealach and an ancient lookout post.

West down into Glen Kinglas past a crag with eagles nesting.

We camped beyond Glenkinglas Lodge, 14 miles or so from any tarmac.

By late morning on the second day, we reached Ardmaddy on Loch Etive. We were here to experience the fact that Loch Etive is far from “that bit of water which you mostly ignore on your way up Ben Starav”. It's actually a great arm of the sea, nearly 30Km, pushing into the mountains from Loch Linnhe. The scenery reminded me of parts of Norway.

Views of Ben Cruachan from the north. And a long way NE to the Etive Munros. 

We reached Taynuilt by mid-afternoon, in good time to enjoy the train ride back to Crianlarich.

2. Rock climbing on the Great Shepherd.

We switched from the low and (relatively) even valleys to the steep and rocky Buachaille Etive Mor, from the little-known to the very famous.

Curved Ridge itself only starts quite high up the Buachaille, and (at a guess) takes up about 30% to 40% of the ascent to the summit. I had forgotten just how much further it is above the Waterslide Slab, on very steep turf and crumbly gravel, quite hard work.

Dave suggested moving together with a rope on; and whilst I have soloed it, both up and down, that was then and this is now, so it was a plan I was glad to adopt. Easy and pleasant sections alternated with the odd tricky bit and some gear placements. And a raft of memories. 

The view out across Rannoch Moor is sensational. 

The descent was by Coire na Tulaich, where the cornice is noted to last well into late spring.

Just a narrow bit was left..... but steep enough to face in and climb down. Behind us, a guide short-roped his client.

And so the long-ish haul back to the road. To my mind, the one-time path down the coire has got more broken up and less defined over the years. Perhaps the Great Shepherd of Etive is becoming a crusty old feller. 

3. At Sir Hugh's Behest. 

Steve Murray now took over from Dave, keen to make inroads into the number of his remaining Munros. 

East of Killin, from the Ben Lawers Hotel (sadly closed) we pushed up the great green bulk of Meall Greigh (1001) and on to Meall Garbh. (1128). Next came An Stuc.

An Stuc has a profile of 45 degrees (=Grade 1) and is known for being extremely steep. Several parties had turned back at steep snow. The apparently innoucuous snow patch (upper left in photo) turned out to be about 40 feet high.

To get up this, we uncrewed the baskets, shortened walking poles to axe length, and plunged twin shafts into the snow at shoulder height. When possible, we transferred to high angle grass tufts, which at least did not crumble under feet (or knees). Neither slipping nor retreat were options here. 

It was a relief to find that the descent from the next bealach to Lochan nan Cat was not similarly blocked, and there shortly developed a path for Lawers. 

It's odd that An Stuc is not on Munro's List. It is steep, separate and distinctive, and almost meets J R Corbett's definition of a “separate mountain” - ie 500 feet down on all sides. How on earth the likes of Beinn Bhreac qualify.......... ? Don't get me started !! 

The following day, as a finale, Steve chose Ben Vane by Loch Lomond (Inveruglas). A short and easy approach, geographically simple.

However the mountain gets quite craggy higher up. And as the start is almost sea level, there is in fact more uphill going on Ben Vane (880m) than upon the mighty Buachaille. (750 m). 

The forecast mist held off, We picked our way gently down. 

Change of clothes and the road for England. Until next time.

ANDREW