Trekking in (er) Italy

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Trekking in … er.... Italy

Our modest pleasure was to fly out with no more than we could carry in a smallish rucksack, to spend as many nights as possible up in the mountains, sleeping in rifugios and walking between them, and visiting a couple of simple mountain summits en route. Some thunderstorms re-ordered our itinerary a wee bit, but (with slick work on the buses) all these objectives came about. We had 5 nights up the hill altogether.

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In Sud Tirol, the Bocker Hutte is deliciously traditional:- a working dairy farm, at 1700 metres, with mattranz-lager for about 20 in a (well-ventilated) loft, and all the bread, jams, cheese, meat are hausgemacht (home-made) by the frau and family.
Next was Talbauer Hut perched 1000 metres above the valley with spectacular views.

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The ample comforts at Talbauer were somewhat marred by the prescence of a scheiss-hund. (Those curious to know how we identified it positively as a scheiss-hund, should consult Dolly privately).

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Picturesque Nassereite Hutte, by a roaring stream, is an old hut rebuilt with all mod cons, and enhanced by the lovely Anna.

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It was reached via the Meraner Hohenweg, a trail high above the Meran valley which links several Alms by traverses across exceeding steep terrain, occasionally cliffs, and ravines including an excellent 55-metre long bridge.

However the Germanic, chunky, meat-heavy food was taking its toll – especially on Angela and Dolly as vegetarians – and I realised that there could be trouble ahead if news of the amount of sausage and apfelstrudel I was eating should leak back to Blighty.

So we were glad to move to Val di Sole and Rifugio Solander, (actually an off-season ski hotel at 2000 m) for two nights of 4-course meals truly in “la bella Italia”.

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Much of our “Italian” trip had indeed been conducted in German. That's a consequence of the newly-unified “Italy” making a land-grab after the end of the First World War, to take in a chunk of South Tirol. Three or four generations later, the cultural divide remains surprisingly stark. We met people in that part of “Italy” whose ONLY language was German.

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The summit of Mutspitz, was reached after an early start from Bocker Hutte, ahead of afternoon rain and thunderstorms.

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Cima Zeledria is an attractive little ridge. It looks more prominent from the Val di Sole than it actually is, and the easily-reached summit has been graced by an Italian flag in coloured metal.

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Behind the summit runs a narrow and steep-sided ridge, which would feel at home in our western Highlands, such as the Rough Bounds of Knoydart. Supposedly an “equipped route” it was in reality no more than a Grade 1 scramble. Occasional metalwork eased the passage, but did not seem to be essential.

100_0960 A beautiful afternoon descent wound via lakes and woodland to Rif Lago Malghette (white wine and chips) then back to the sun terrace.

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A final day's downhill walk through charming scenery and a nice lunch brought us the long way round to Pelizzano in Val di Sole.

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Only several drinks and a pizza away from the morning train to Verona. . .

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100_0964ANDREW

 

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One Comment

  1. Looks like a fantastic time was had by all – the photo’s are superb!

    Penny

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