2nd July - Thursday
After receiving intel on their flight from Steve, who was returning to the UK after a week’s pan European mountaineering adventure with Derek, Ewart and Martin arrived at Malpensa airport. Derek's limo was waiting outside arrivals to whisk the trio to St Vincent. To keep flight costs down Derek had transported the large bags so on arrival at Hotel au Soleil, a quick repack of gear into valley and mountain bags was in order, followed by a meal out, a glass or two of local vino and then bed.
3rd July - Friday
Early(ish) start to the day followed by the best breakfast the team had in Italy. Spectacular drive over the mountain pass to St. Jacques. Car parked, mountain packs on, with water almost 14kgs, should have ditched more items last night, and then a 1400m ascent to Rifugio Mezzalama 3036m. A slight navigation error forced the group over a moraine, down into a glacial formed steep sided valley, a river crossing and over the other valley side and lateral moraine to regain the true path. But the team made it to Rifugio Mezzalama, exhausted but happy.
Rifugio Mezzalama (https://www.caitorino.it/rifugi/mezzalama/) originates from 1934 and hasn't changed much since been built, it’s small with friendly staff. Although old, the Rifugio does provide a charging station, and 4G is accessible depending on atmospheric conditions. Ibex live nearby and visit on an evening. There was a strong suspicion that Ibex was on the menu more than once, during the teams stay, masquerading as beef.
4th July - Saturday
Saturday brought the team's first +4000m challenge, Pollux 4092m a mere 1056m ascent before returning to Mezzalama for another night. The route to Pollux required a 04:00hrs wake up, 04:30hrs breakfast and 05:30hrs departure. The first part of the route led the group up the Rocce di Lambronecca incorporating a steep via ferrata directly onto the Rifugio Guide d'Ayas terrace, 3394 m. Once on the terrace the trio geared and roped up before joining the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra glacier heading to Zwillingsjoch 3846m before reaching the foot of the rocky SW-ridge. Along the SW-ridge, the altitude became too much for Ewart, who was forced to abandon his summit attempt. In true Top Gear style, he was left behind, while Derek and Martin continued to the base of a large, vertical, red rock tower adorned with fixed chains. Multiple groups had arrived at the chains at the same time from below and above. There then followed an almost comical race down, up and across chains. Any semblance of climbing etiquette was abandoned. While belaying Derek up the first section Martin was physically pushed across his stance by a guide while Derek found another guide climbing down his chain, utter chaos! Nevertheless, the duo made it to the Madonna and Child statue and with Derek leading followed the final ridge to the summit. After a quick celebration the route was reversed, Ewart was found, resting (asleep) on a sunny aspect of the ridge. The trio made it back to Mezzalama via a well-deserved rest (sleep for some –Martin) at Guide d'Ayas.
5th July – Sunday
The route down to St. Jacques necessitated the team’s second river crossing, due to a river that had meandering around the existing bridge. The route took the group through the stunning pian di verra valley, with amazing alpine views in every direction. Instead of routing directly to St Jacques the trio diverted to another rifugio for a late lunch at Rifugio Ferraro (https://www.rifugioferraro.it/), great food and extremely friendly staff, before the final 400m descent.
Once at the car it was a quick transfer to the team’s valley base, Champoluc.
6th July - Monday
Scheduled as a chill-out and recharge day, the team explored Champoluc, repacked mountain packs, to try again to get the weight down, and managed a leisurely scroll up to Caleuc, an ancient alpine hamlet with some stunning waterfalls along the way.
7th July - Tuesday
Unfortunately, due to the time of year, the ski lift from Champoluc was only running at weekends. Consequently, the group booked a jeep, for an off-road transfer, from St Jacques to the col de Bettaforca 2672m. Cutting almost 1000m off the days ascent to the Rifugio Quintino Sella 3585m. The group were rattled up off road tracks, Derek without a working seatbelt, and Ewart with a dodgy door, yet at the end Derek commented it was the best 20 euros he had ever spent, or at least his knees thought so!
Even with the jeep transfer the route up was a challenge. Initially ascending the Eastern flank of Bettolina before following the ridge up Eleonora Torchio. The final part of the route was along a via ferrata before the group reached the Quintino Sella for a well-earned drink and nap before the evening meal.
Rifugio Quintino Sella (https://www.rifugioquintinosella.com/index_e) was originally built in 1885 but has undergone multiple renovations, today it represents a large, popular, modern rifugio. Although not used, showers were available, the meals were good quality, and although expensive extra food and drinks were available all day. Surprisingly, 4G was accessible and there was charging stations for devices.
8th July - Wednesday
Wednesday brought the second +4000m peak challenge of the week, Castor 4223m. The guardian told the team that given Castor's proximity to the rifugio, pack ups would not be necessary as you should be back in time for lunch. Given the team's slow progress on previous +4000m peaks, the trio worried lunch might be missed entirely. A not so early alpine start of 05:30hrs saw the group gearing and roping up prior to Ewart leading the crossing over the Felikgletscher glacier on the way to Felikjoch, 4061m via Felikhorn 4086 m. The slope up Felikhorn is usually a snow covered steep slope. Due to the well compacted snow the slope is usually considered easy. However, the team found a bare ice slope making the final push up to the Felikhorn considerably harder than usual. From Felikjoch the route follows an undulating snow covered ridgeline. For the majority of the ridge the path was fine but for some sections the ridge was extremely narrow, coupled with gusting winds of up to 40 miles per hour the team progressed with caution, ready to jump down the opposite side of the ridge, if another team member should tumble down the ridge slope. The team summited Castor at ~09:00hrs just about on schedule. Martin led the descent which basically was a reverse of the ascent. Fortunately, the ice slope off the Felikhorn was still in condition. However, as the team neared the rifugio the glacier condition deteriorated, the overlying snow was sugar-like and pools of melt water were evident in all directions. Nevertheless, the team reached the rifugio well before lunch at ~11:30hrs.
Initially, the trio had intended to stay the Thursday night at Quintino Sella, allowing another summit attempt, but fatigue and a thundery low pressure weather front necessitated a change of plan. A quick conversation with the guardian and a phone call to another resulted in the group swapping the last night at Quintino Sella for a night at the recently visited and much liked Rifugio Ferraro. So, as it was their last night at the rifugio the team soaked in the views from Quintino Sella.
9th July - Thursday
Descent from Rifugio Quintino Sella to Rifugio Ferraro. An even more leisurely apline start ~07:45hrs saw the team leave Quintino Sella and descend the via ferrata and the Eleonora Torchio slope. The trio then turned off the main path in a westerly direction down the northwest flank of Monte Rosso. Initially, steep scree leading to an equally steep boulder field and finally a snow filled gully led the team to the much loved pian di verra valley the trio had passed through on their way to St Jacques from Mezzalama.
At an abandoned group of farm building Ewart found two boules balls. There then followed the inaugural YMC alpine boules match. Although both Derek and Martin thought that given Ewarts 'stella' performance, some form of the game, must be played throughout North Wales!
After a much needed rest the group meandered down the valley again enjoying the stunning alpine landscape.
Arriving at Rifugio Ferraro the group celebrated their almost one mile vertical descent with beers and luxury of luxuries hot showers.
In keeping with the huts general vibe the evening meal did not disappoint.
10th July - Friday
After breakfast a short descent to St. Jacques, a round of coffees and then a drive to the village of Extrepiera. The team spent the day at the Extrepiera sport climbing crag until the thunder and rain arrived mid-afternoon. Then on to the accommodation further down the valley at Chataignere-Viran for the groups final night in Italy.
11th July – Saturday and 12th July - Sunday
The team drove from the Aosta valley into France, staying overnight in Riems before traveling, via Le Shuttle, back to the UK arriving in York around 16:30hrs on Sunday afternoon.
For those considering a similar trip the table below gives an indication of costs
| Item | Cost per person |
| Car (fuel, tolls, insurance, wear & tear) | £166 |
| Valley accommodation | £207 (5 nights) |
| Valley miscellaneous (food, drinks, shopping) | £101 |
| Mountain accommodation | £365 (5 nights) |
| Mountain miscellaneous (food, drinks, shopping) | £70 |
| Jeep transfer | £18 |
| Flight | £73 |
| Total | £1000 |