DAYS OUT FROM YORK
Just as a change (mostly) from the long weekends away, here’s my log of ten days out in 2012 so far.
There have been 3 excellent days in the Lakes, some wind in the Yorkshire Dales, and an ice pitch in the North York Moors.
5th to 7th January 2012 SCOTLAND NW HIGHLANDS
With Frank & Matt Diggle I had 3 days in Glen Shiel. Sometimes the weather was quite poor. Mostly it was worse than that.
On the way home, the Corbett of Meall Tairneachan (790m) near Kinloch Rannoch, provided a short walk in fine and windy weather. Knee depth snow over 650 metres
13 January 2012 NORTH YORK MOORS Circuit of Spaunton Moor. Cold and clear, light wind
14 January 2012 LAKE DISTRICT
With Steve Green, Orrin the Dog, James L, Matt L, Helen, and Jen.
We made our way from Mungrisedale along the valley to Scales Tarn.
The Yoof section opted to cross Sharp Edge. Orrin and his handlers watched from across the Tarn as they inched their way along, avoiding the verglas. Reunited at Blencathra summit, we enjoyed great views en route to Blease Fell & then returned across the moorland north of Blencathra, as Helen was finding the odd sheepfold and ring contour for navigation practice. Cold sunny and clear
Orrin was reformed and did not display any of the cannine sexual extravagance which marked him at Franks 283rd Munro.
21 January 2012 YORKSHIRE DALES
With Frank, James P and Ruth. A day of very strong winds, mostly overcast, occasional showers & sunny intervals.
We puffed our way up Simons Seat and snuggled in the rocky outcrops to escape the wind. Dropping down north, we found Trollers Gill very full of water – just passable. A return along the riverside path completed a nice day out..
29 January 2012 LAKE DISTRICT With Maria, Mike, and Helen.
Glenridding, up Swirral edge, down Striding Edge. Clear and calm day, cloud cover mainly above summits.
Full winter conditions, snow above 300m
It was necessary to face in and downclimb first part of the snowslope off Helvellyn summit.
10 February 2012 NORTH YORK MOORS
With Richard & Sarah. Freezing rain had left the roads treacherous, and the weather was mostly pants. So we headed east to find the only bright spot going, and stuck to the main Whitby road. . From the Hole of Horcum to Levisham via the small gulley of Dundale Griff.
We found it necessary to investigate the pub at levisham, then Seavey Pond and the “his and hers” tumuli graves which gaze out across their ancient territory.
We had a bright sunny day with 6 inch snow cover
12 February 2012 NORTH YORK MOORS
With Richard G & Mike F. we headed in thick cold morning mist to the “Crag X” icefall. Improving roads were offset by deteriorating ice, but the pitch was climbable on a top rope.
A short circuit around the moorland in cloudy cold conditions justified a pleasant pint in the Lion Inn.
19 February 2010 LAKE DISTRICT
A YMC party. of Jon, Guy, John Mac, Mike, Maria, Paul Stannet et moi climbed Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag.
After a “snowfall” forecast for the previous day, we carried winter gear, but the ridge was dry rock, in its usual condition as a summer hard scramble/mod — except colder. A day of brilliant sunshine and excellent views.
From St Sunday summit it was down to Grisdale Tarn and back to Patterdale.
THE NOTCH AND THE CASTLE
Neptune’s staircase.
Two miles out of Fort Bill on the Road to the Isles, its the last (or first) link in the Caledonian Canal
Here, King Neptune’s watery kingdom climbs up eight steps, to rise 64 feet out of the sea to Loch Lochy…… the longest rise in Britain. As well as the canal locks, there’s a decent pub. So fom a sunny table Amanda, Lizzie, Dave and I could get views back to The Ben whilst a good meal rounded off two grand days out.
We’d seized some rare Scottish summer sunshine to get onto the Aonach Eagach — The Notched Ridge of Glen Coe – on Friday.
Am Bodach is Gaelic for “Old Man”…….. quite right, I thought, as I sweat pints into my thin cotton shirt that hot morning. Just over an hour from the glen, brought us to its 943-metre summit and views of the ridge snaking westwards.
The clamber down the exposed ledges off Am Bodach has its claim to be considered the crux of the whole matter.
After that, some easy sauntering on grass eventually leads to the interesting pinnacly section. In ideal weather, this gave an hour’s entertaining scrambling up and over, down and round.
As the Clachaig path down is now discouraged, we swung northwards to finish on that superb viewpoint, the Pap of Glencoe.
Beers at the Clachaig ? Us ??
And my hitching thumb still works (eventually).
So we moved north, and Saturday morning gave us an easier start up the much-improved Allt a’Mhuilinn path towards The Ben.
Castle Ridge is the gentlest sister of the Ben’s four classic ridge climbs. Starting just below the CIC Hut, it rises from left to right, a 1000 foot sweep of rock though finishing some 2km from the summit, overlooking the Halfway Lochan.
At the beginning, its a pretty simple scramble – although the views are getting awesome.
500 feet up, the rope comes out, and the route quite quickly toughens up to stake its claim as being definitely a rock climb.
Dave led the crux chimney, which is not short of holds, but has some big-time exposure down to the right side. (“Thanks Dave….. but don’t take the photo just yet……. not until I’m……..” )
A classic route on an excellent day, straddling the boundary of the hardest scrambling and the easiest climbing. Although it does end “in the middle of nowhere’ leaving acres of loose stony waste to be negotiated (with various slips and slides) down down down down to the Halfway.
However it was from the stony heights that Neptune was first sighted, and basking with a pint in the sun gazing back at Castle Ridge was definitely the right place at the right time.
ANDREW
Fun and Games in the the Alps
Saastal, July 2011
Mittaghorn – Egginer Traverse (AD, III+)
After a mammoth drive, and a day spent loafing around eating waffles, we were ready to get up some hills. The long traverse between Mittaghorn and Egginer looked interesting, and would help with acclimatisation, so we settled on that.
Soon after beginning the traverse, we were faced with an awkward downclimb, with a scary looking drop below it – time for the rope! We moved together over a series of gendarmes with some interesting and exposed climbing – none of it difficult, and all enjoyable. 
The climbing got steadily easier as we went, but the quality of the rock deteriorated, getting looser and looser until near the summit of Egginer where every footfall seemed to send a cascade of stones down the hill. Looking at the loose and chossy final chimney pitch, we decided to leave it – it didn’t look pleasant, and dropping rocks on each other wasn’t our idea of entertainment!
Descending involved retracing our steps along the ridge for some distance, before picking the best line down loose rocks to the west. Much entertainment of the ‘sliding down rubble’ variety was had here! A patch of slushy snow (once a glacier), and some boulder-hopping over the moraine then led easily to the path down to Saas Fee.
Jegihorn South Rib (AD, III+)
The next day, after a lie-in and a late breakfast, we decided to make the most of the good weather by doing the Jegihorn South Rib. After a lift to Hohsaas, we walked in to the Jegihorn via the Weissmeis hut. Again, a slog up a steep eroded path was required before we could begin the route, but this time we were doing it at midday in 30 degree heat, making the ascent feel much more than the 300m it really was! After what seemed like an eternity, we reached the pillar at the bottom of the route, ready to get started.
The first pitch was a straightforward traverse, taking us to an exposed part of the rib with startling suddenness. Seconding Mike, I climbed past a bolted belay station, only to find him belaying approximately 3m above it, using a hex and sling in protest!
The bolts weren’t mentioned in the guidebook, so I can only assume this was a recent initiative by the local Guides. A real pity, as it was otherwise a good quality, protectable route in a magnificent position. Seeing as the bolts were there though, we ended up using some of them in the end to save time and effort.
I led pitch two, following the rib before heading up a slab. The slab was easy, but without a doubt one of the most sensationally exposed bits of rock I’ve been on, with a cracking eagles nest of a belay position at the top. Mike, with an enormous grin on his face by this time, headed up pitch three, which contained a thought provoking short traverse that felt a little sketchy in big boots! Seconding it felt bold, as I looked at the chunk of rock I’d swing into if I fell. Having short arms was also a distinct disadvantage, eliminating the possibility of using the only hold. One deep breath later, I was romping up the easier stuff above to join Mike.
We decided against the optional harder finish (IV+), and took the standard route, traversing right before following chimneys to the top. The bolts stopped at this point, making route finding trickier – as I traversed round I saw a large chimney that looked doable and climbed it quickly to see where it led. However, once at the top it was apparent that I had probably followed a blind alley. Hmmm. Rather than waste time, I decided to attempt to get back on route by doing a short but scary looking traverse. As is often the case, reasonable holds materialised to turn the scary looking moves into a walk in the park. Once safely back on route, there was just one more easy but loose pitch to the summit at 3206m.
After some time sunbathing on top and eyeing up the Weissmies (which we were planning to do next) we headed down and began the long tramp to Saas Grund.
Weissmies Traverse (PD)
After a couple of days of bad weather we were keen to get out again, so on the first nice morning we set out for the Almageller Hut in order to do the traverse of the Weissmies. The walk was beautiful, but 1300m of ascent in hot weather wearing a big rucksack and Nepal Extremes wasn’t conducive to appreciating the views!
The hut was fantastic, and we enjoyed a slap-up meal before relaxing and chatting with a fellow Brit, whose forty 4000m peaks dwarfed our one! After a better than usual (for a hut) night’s sleep, we breakfasted at the unholy time of 4am, and were heading up the hill by 4:30am.
By the time we reached the col, it was sufficiently light to dispense with headtorches, and the views on either side of the ridge started to open up. To our west we could see the incredible Dom – Nadelhorn ridge, while to our east was a classic cloud inversion and Alpine dawn.
We made our way up the ridge on its eastern side, climbing a lengthy snow slope followed by a long rock scramble to the foresummit at 3965m. Here the ridge narrowed to a perfect snow arete, curving its way up to the main summit at 4017m.
Once on the summit we relaxed and chatted for a while with the teams coming up the ‘normal’ route (our descent route). For the first time ever we had smashed an alpine guidebook time, and were feeling pretty chuffed.
I soon got chilly enough to want to be moving though, so we roped up (for the first time that day) before tackling the spectacularly crevassed terrain of the descent.
We weaved between ice-cliffs and crevasses throughout most of the way down, with a few jumps required to cross crevasses, and some thin snow-bridges that were thankfully still frozen! Once off the glacier, we were able to chill out at the handy cafe, and get the lift down. You don’t get that on Ben Nevis (thankfully)!
And I thought the Alps were meant to be sunny…
Sadly the next day brought rain, and the gloomy forecast persuaded us that we weren’t going to get anything else done in the week ahead, so we decided to call my brother with a last minute request to visit him in Amsterdam. Of course, much extreme mountaineering then took place among the canals and coffeeshops…
Suilven and Friends…….a north-west passage
Frankly, its a bit preposterous.
Take a narrow footpath over a mile long. A bit scrambly in places.
Then put it half a mile up in the sky, and add precipitous drops off either side and sheer rock down from either end.
Suilven sticks up from a surrounding low countryside patchwork of streams, bogs, moors and sparkling lochains, all on its own, as improbable as the In Pin on Sgurr Dhearg.
We marched in from Lochinver on a bright tho’ slightly windy April morning, and after 2 hours began the steep-ish path up a grassy gulley halfway along the ridge, which is the only point of access (from either side).
Three hours saw us at the notch in the ridge, and another 20 minutes to the summit at the west end.
Backtracking to the access point, we took the first mild scramble along the ridge to the east.
However the final eastern pinnacle involved a drop and reascent, and seemed to have a large pitch high up. The Old Enemy was ticking by, so it was back along along along the long path to Lochinver to complete a 7.5 hour day.
And then to a wild camp, firelight and red wine, by the shores of Loch Assynt, under the ruined walls of Ardvreck Castle with its ghostly tales and history of the final capture of Montrose by the Covenanters in 1650.
In the clear moonlight this was both convenient, romantic and spectacular. Unfortunately it also turned out to be on the Tick List so no return is planned.!!!
Paul had a yen for Ben Klibreck. So on Sunday we left Quinaig for another time and romped up the moorland behind the Crask Inn to the second most northerly Munro. I was glad to see this in clear weather. The summit made an imposing pyramid and we did not agree with the dull opinion of this mountain eg by Butterworth.
A forecast of poor weather for Monday didn’t sound good for the hills. However being already so far north, we decided to go “right to the top” to a B&B in Tongue, in fact.
Monday was in fact quite memorable, as we explored the bleak beauty of the northern coastline.
The village of Sleiteil (which had no road access) was abandoned in 1938. We found the house of the grandmother of the waitress at the Tongue pub.
Further along, were narrow rock formations and an arch. Then at Farr Bay the surf was up and we watched the rollers pounding in.
Eventually it was time to turn south, following the weather down 39 miles of single track road, and then south south south to Inverness and finally – feeling almost “home” – familiar Newtonmore and Craigellachie bunkhouse.
The Monadliath was easily reached by walking straight out of town, and onto the Munros of Carn Sgulain and A’Chaillaich. On a variable day, we had a drubbing of hail and wind for half an hour, but happily this cleared at the first summit. Once again the distant and beautiful landscape unfolded its colours.
“A well-engineered stalkers path leads upwards to the bealach………”
I used to ask Angela Ryan whether she had met the “well-engineered stoker” and if she approved……. ANYWAY, putting that to one side, Ralph Storer’s stock phrase is particularly true at the bottom of Glen Shiel, where a pony trail keeps an even gradient for 1500 feet from the valley floor almost at sea level.
Brian Harrington and Baljit Kumar had been pre-occupied with the Skye Ridge this summer (there are even rumours of a Report) so for a mainland trip I’d suggested this old friend, the Forcan Ridge of The Saddle.
From the place where the well-engineered stalker finished his path, the ridge sweeps up almost another 2000 feet altogether, across the top of Sgurr nan Forcan and on to the summit.
The ridge from the south side
Sometimes its a couple of metres wide, and presents a short wall to scramble up, or a wee gendarme to turn.
Brian on a wall section
Adam clambers over the pinnacle
Often it narrows to a blade of rock. (There’s also an escape path down on the north side however).
only a few centimetres wide here, Adam !!
The scrambling is just excellent, with some sensational positions, though never too hard.
Balj and Brian downclimb the hardest bit
And its a decent length, taking about 2 hours in total from the bealach to the summit.
“Na zdravi” said Adam, who had only arrived in York from the Czech Republic on Sunday, got himself down to the Fox on Thursday, and did his first Munro on Saturday. Pleasantly surprised by Scotland’s mountains (on a day of glorious sunshine and no wind !!!!) he was happy enough to get across to a second Munro at Sgurr na Sgine, and of course we finished in the traditional way down the steep nose of Faochag.
A few pints later, Brian cooked us all a meal and then competently directed further operations from the sofa at Corpach.
zzzzzzzz.........lovely day.....zzz
Well the weather forecast turned right round ! It was obviously only right and proper for Adam to know that Scottish weather isn’t always so relaxing.
We motored east on Sunday morning to Aviemore, and began to think we had outrun the front as we began the stony lower reaches of the Fiacaill Ridge (Fiacaill Coire an t’Sneachda) in fair sunshine.
However cloud soon brushed the hills. We just got to the blocky scramble at the top and “wham” the fog rolled in and it began to rain. Clambering out onto the plateau, visibility was about 25 metres.
The top of Fiacaill Ridge as the mist begins to strike
I worked round the edge of Coire Sneachda along familiar landmarks in the mist. We stopped for a sandwich, but the rain persisted, so no trip down to Hell’s Lum then.
Ach, well, its good to have variety. We settled for a variety of coffees at the ski centre once we got down, followed by a variety of scotch pies at Ballinluig. A good Sunday tea, and a great scramble in Glen Shiel. Cheers ! …. or from Adam, Na Zdravi !!
ANDREW
Here’s our doings for the year of 2009
Tarn Crag Gulley
Topping out of Tarn Crag Gulley
Tarn Crag Gulley 09
A winter climbing day in the Lake District
Club Winter Weekend 2009
Club Winter weekend 2009 A couple of dozen climbing in Coire an t’Sneachda and winter training on Cairngorm
Rjukan Norway February 2009
Rjukan Norway 09
Ice climbing on accessible Norse ice
Corrour: A track re-trodden
Corrour in the snow
Scotland in the snow, 28/29 March 2009
Andrews 284th Munro
Compleation on Ben Vane
Andrew’s Compleation
Compleation with 20 friends on Ben Vane and Curved Ridge 18/19 April 2009
The Rum Adventure
The Rum Cuillin
A journey to the distant and magical island of Rum, the Rum Cuillin Ridge, and the bothies of Dibidil and Guirdil
The Pennine Way
The Pennine Way
Lone girl Pennine walk damp holiday well done Helen !!
Mountainbiking Around Feizor
Feizor Loop Bike Route
Biking in the Yorkshire Dales. A straightforward route as an introduction to mountainbiking.
Ledge Route, Ben Nevis.
Ledge Route and other meanderings
Five days in the Scottish Highlands including the big scramble on the Ben.
Ullapool and Torridon
Ullapool and Torridon
Frank and his diary get around 14 summits at the end of August.
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Robin in foreign parts rambles up er, a somewhat largish white mountain. Phew !!
Beinn a’ Ghlo weekend
Munros Misty and Mellow
Andrew and team September Munro weekend including the mighty highway of Atholl.
The Forcan Ridge of The Saddle
- only a few centimetres wide here, Adam !!
- October in Glen Shiel and another of Scotland’s great classic scrambles.
Mamores
Kinlochleven and Mamores
Frank and Dolly defy rainy weather to gain 6 Munros this weekend.
York MC 60th Anniversary weekend
YMC Diamond Meet
Trail Quest, Dinner, games and jollity as we reach bus pass age.
First route of winter at Aviemore
Hore Zdar…..a Christmas Cracker
Andrew and Paul, with Adam, BrianT, Carlos & Helen climb and bothy as the white stuff gets started.
Mountainbiking in the snow
Santa and reindeers
Santa Simon and his reindeer helpers ride out
Skye at Christmas
Christmas on Blabheinn
Simon and Steph, Frank and Dolly spend a snowy Christmas Day on Blabheinn.
These are links to some of our doings in 2008, although only a minority of Members outings actually get written up !!
Follow the links and enjoy the Reports.
Striding Edge in January:
A Sober Saturday Circuit
- Full winter conditions on Striding Edge, sadly with a fatality witnessed from Swirral Edge.
Killin in January:
The Killin Alps
- Strong winds and steep slopes as we struggle to stand in crampons on Beinn Ghlas
Blackmount and Ben Lui in February:
February Tyndrum trip
- A winter weekend on Stob Ghabhar and Stob a’ Choire Odhair, and Central Gulley of Ben Lui.
Rjukan Ice Climbing:
Rjukan 2008 -
Climbing on accessible Norway ice
Club Winter Weekend 2008:
Winter Weekend 2008
- The gang goes to Langangarbh Hut in Glencoe for winter(ish) activities
Eastern Fannaichs in Winter:
Eastern Fannaichs -
Two sizeable Fannaich days with snow and cornices, and some blue skies.
Glentress in the Snow:
Switchbacks in the Snow -
A March trip mountainbiking in Glentress
Mountainbiking Southern Scotland:
Newcastleton-Innerliethen-Glentress
- A three day mountain bike fest
Via Ferrata in the Lake District:
Honister Via Ferrata
- The Dolce Via comes to the Lake District………..or does it ?? A disappointed view of the Honister metals
The Torridon Giants:
Torridon May 2008
- An expedition to remote Torridon, and up its 6 major Munros.
Mountain Biking in Luchon:
MountainBiking in Luchon
- A wheelie good trip to the French Pair o’ Knees
Climbing in Cyprus:
Climbing in Cyprus
- Mediterranean sun and rock
The Grey Corries:
The Grey Corries
- A full squad of 11 goes to Lochaber for some September Munros.
Buffeting on Helm Crag:
Buffeting on Helm Crag
- A wild October day on a ridge and abseil
This is an index page for the Reports written in 2006. Click on the links and enjoy the read……
Winter Climbing Coire An t’Sneachda
The Genie and the Beast
Aladdins Couloir and Goat Track Gulley in conditions only just winter.
Club Winter Weekend 2006
Corpach 2006
The weekend saw teams on the Ben,
Aonach Mor, Aonach Eagach, Stob Coire nan
Lochan, Ring of Steall
& the Ballachulish Horse Shoe.
Boomerang Gulley, Glencoe, winter climbing
In the Hero’s footsteps
Andrew and Paul feel honoured on a route which was a W. H. Murray first ascent
Threading The Needle, Great Gable
Threading The Needle
A dampish April scramble through one of the most iconic locations in the Lake District.
Lurg Mhor wilderness expedition
The Cheesecake and the Policeman
Our May expedition to Bearnais bothy and the remote Munros of Bidein a’Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhor.
Pembroke Climbing
Pembroke 06
A visit to climb at Pembroke in the sun.
Pyrenees Bike and Climb
Bon Escalades YMC team heads for some sunny action
Skye Main Ridge Traverse
Skye Take Two
Jim shares “one of the greatest adventures in the world’ as he and Tenk crack the Cuillin Ridge at the second attempt.
Fifteen in a Day
15 in a Day
Tenk and Howard get cracking from Lochnagar and zoom around Munro summits……with a few more on Sunday too !
Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis
An Eye-Full Tower
The west ridge of Ben Fhada proves a Saturday warm-up for the longest rock climb in Britain, the famous Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis, with its Eastern Traverse and awesome Tower Gap.
Alpine Dreams
Alpine Dreams
Rich Johnson’s Alpine exploits in July
Alpine Guide
Alpine Guide
Rich Johnson’s article on how to do it.
The Far North of Scotland
The Far North
Further away than Paris (but a lot less crowded) our team check out the stunning landscapes of furthest north….. Ben Hope, Conival and Ben More Assynt.
Glen Etive and beyond
Glen Etive & Beyond
October Munros, a party at Inbhirfhaolain and more mountains at Fersit.
Winter Munros
Making the White Decisions
A wild and woolly time on Beinn Heasgarnich on Armistice Day, followed by a far corner of the Cairngorms at Carn an Righ by bike.
Aviemore in a Flash
Aviemore in a Flash
A bitterly cold climb in Crotched Gulley, feeling minus 27 degrees in a howling wind, which was actually pretty serious except that the weekend was such a laugh !!
Nethermost Gulley, Lake District.
Early Season Conditions
More winter climbing, the sole route in the Lake District.
Old Man of Stoer
Old Man of Stoer
Sensational sea cliff climbing on a famous Scottish stack.
Blencathra and Skiddaw
Training Day
A full day getting ready for more.
The Round of Loch Mullardoch
The Round of Loch Mullardoch.
Here’s the big one. “a long and serious backpacking expedition over some of the largest and loneliest mountains in the Scottish Highlands” (Richard Gilbert); Three days through truly magnificent mountain scenery of high, narrow ridges and tall shapely summits looking out across empty glens, completely uninhabited……
Pembroke Climbing
Bosherston Pembroke
Six of York’s finest spend 3 days sea cliff climbing at Pembroke.
Climbing in the Lake District
Gray Crag-High Stile
Climbing Harrow Buttress, Slabs Ordinary, and Oxford and Cambridge Direct
Climbing at Filey
Magic goes to Filey
A dirty day on the coast with fish and chips to finish
Climbing at Slipstones
Super Slipstones
A sunny day at a super crag
Mountainbiking in Glentress
Glentress September 2005
Routes in the forest………. and Simon DOESN’T get injured !
Urban X
Urban X
A bicycle and building-climbing day in the mountains of, errr …. Manchester
The Five Sisters of Kintail
Five Sisters Ridge
The long high ridge which begins Glen Shiel, memories of the Spanish invaders, and the legend of the sisters.
The Stuic Ridge scramble of Lochnagar
Scrambling the Stuic
Cairngorm classic scramble on an iconic mountain
Birchen Edge night climbing
Trafalgar
Silly doings in the dark….. probably Not Expected by England.
Snowy Corbetts in November
First White
In the first snows of November, we find two excellent Corbett days in the wake of a storm.
