JEWELS BEYOND ULLAPOOL

Lo !  said the shadowy figure, KNOW that there yet lie, within Scotia’s realm, mountains of great beauty, towering over a plain studded with blue lochans,  with awesome cliffs,  rocky pinnacled ridges, full of grace and character. And yet unvisited by them of the 914.6

Give me this quest, I said to the figure, that I may tread upon such mountains.

And so it was, that I sought out The Kendrick, from his dwelling-place, and together we yede into the far north-west, even beyond the Pool of Ull.

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Stac Polliadh (612 metres) was a short day after a morning’s drive from Inverness. A quick ascent of an hour and 20 minutes to the extremely pinnacled ridge. The sun shone brightly, lochans below glinted, and we looked across a totally gorgeous landscape towards Cul Mor, Suilven, Canisp. 

Pick a path westwards, winding around rock buttresses, finally working up to the top of the ridge.

The rocky ridge

The “bad step” is a 5 metre lump of rock on the ridge. Two or three moves to climb up, but a worry about reversing it. However on the south side, is a chimney which would be awkward to climb, but gives an easy slither out of its lower end.

Slithering

The way leads up and over

An easy ramble then leads to the final summit.

North and south shone the lovely shapes of hills in Inverpolly and Coigach. West glittered the peninsula, the sea, the Outer Hebrides on the horizon.

Suilven

To round off a short hill day, we also had a look at Corrieshalloch Falls. Highly recommended…… an amazing gorge, right next to the main road. I shall be driving a bit slower on that stretch now !!

A plunge of over 300 feet

With afternoon rain in the forecast, we fancied a roof in Ullapool. The only available one was at the Ceilidh Place, a hotel/bar with an out-of-date building called the Clubhouse across the road, used as a bunkhouse. It’s a tatty place, and a similar sin to the bunkhouse at Bridge of Orchy  Hotel………they charged a reasonably expensive ￡15 for bunks in a tiny room, but there is no kitchen at all to cook in, and no sitting room.  Fortunately the rain was late coming, so we found our way into their furniture store, and cooked on our camping stoves al fresco. Ullapool’s a pretty picture as always, but they know how to charge a lot for beer too !!

Dining in style..........outside

Sadly the late rain was late hanging around on Sunday, blotting out the whole day. We drove north to see geological stuff at Knockan Crag, and on to Elphin, where tea and scones were sold by a couple all the way from………Holmfirth, West Yorkshire. 

“Quiet around here ? ” I said. 

“Aye, we all come here cos we’re all anti-social” was his considered reply.

Finally as the weather let up, it was time to go camping. Off we went westwards past Loch Lurgainn, past the Ard of Coigach, to briefly explore the beaches at Achnahaird before crossing the low hill to Altandhu.  the descent road has a superb viewpoint over the Summer Isles,  all lying where they were thrown.

View of the Summer Isles

Camping on the beach at Achiltibuie, and just a pleasant mile’s walk from the Hotel.

Meal wine beer beer wine.

On the beach

Its also a place rich in ancient Gaelic Customs…………such as hanging the tyre on the lamp post.

Having got right round the peninsula to this spot, we were well placed to do Ben Mor Coigach from the southwest next morning. A traverse across moorland at 400 metres led to the rocky nose of Garbh Choireachan, as the ground got exceedingly steep. A Grade One type gulley wound up into the rocks. Looking like it would “go”, we clambered upwards, alert for any irreversible move, and finally emerged on a delightful, narrow rock ridge which is about 1 kilometre long, before rising again on grassland to the Summit. 

On the ridge

Beyond, a rocky bealach, a climb to Sgurr an Fhidleir, stunning views across to Stac Pollaidh, and two more miles of ridge to Cairn Conmheall overlooking the sea before dropping back to our car. An excellent varied day, and full of interest.

Ben Mor Coigach

We reckoned we’d made a shrewd move back in Ullapool, by just squeezing into the Youth Hostel, plenty of comfy space and good cooking. But we didn’t reckon on a fellow guest pulling Zeds for England !!!. The door shook, windows rattled.

So Tuesday was a rather late start. Straight up Cul Mor……..a good path (with one boulder field) leads alll the way to the summit. More great views of Suilven, Canisp, and Quinaig beyond, in a mixture of sunshine and mist. 

It started to pour down just after we got back to the car. 

We made tracks south to outrun the rain, and ended up on the Corbett of Little Wyvis for our afternoon constitutional. Dwarfed by its Munro brother, the Little one made a change, however, with a good perspective down Glen Carron. 

And as the showers finally caught us again, we reached the car. A grand collection of Jewels from Ullapool:- but more remain. Mighty Suilven awaits.

ANDREW

Corrour in the distance

As I’d just spend 4 days away on the Dales Way, a Wednesday to Friday “weekend” trip to the Cairngorms just fitted in before some weekend guests arrived, although it involved hasty preparations. However I was Easily Led into it by Franks Itinerary of Bob Scott’s and Corrour bothies.

In the car with Frank and Matt Diggle – YMC’s foremost afficionados of granddad rock – there was a Whole Lotta Led booming from the speakers as we sped north. I was amazed to reflect that its eight years since I last slept at Corrour in 2002, and – gasp – three and a half years have already slipped by since Tenk and I made our somewhat infamous “Ten Years Gone” trip to Monad Mor with its seisimic consequences at Bob Scott’s.

The Fife Arms at Braemar was driven straight past, so parking at Linn of Dee we went immediately to Ramble On in the gloaming for a quick 50 minute march to Bob Scotts. The bothy was in darkness, but in fact was occupied by three cyclists with guitars, copious alcohol, and towing a baby trailer to Bring It On Home; they’d arrived at 5pm and crashed out by 11. Anyway we were able to actually sleep inside the Hut this time, which was a first !

Thursday looked like a Misty Mountain day,

but the skies eased as we marched west into the wilderness and the heather was Trampled Under Foot. My right knee began to take notice of the steady tramp. In a couple of hours we approached the Lairig Ghru, and saw the Black Mountain Side of Bod am Fhitich — the Devil’s Penis, as the Gaels called it before Queen Victoria came.

I like the southern end of the Lairig Ghru:- the scenery is massive yet with a simple grandeur, which is somehow both awesome and calming too. Arriving at remote Corrour, we found ourselves sole possessors and laid out spaces. Behind the bothy, a repaired path leads like a Stairway To the plateau and round to the Summit of Bod am Fhitich at 1004 metres.

On The Devils Point

The clouds had retreated above 1200 metres, but my arthritic knee continued its commentary on the day’s walking. Anyway, we swung north now up rockier territory to Stob Coire an t-Saigheir at 1213 metres, on the way to Carn Toul, Britain’s fourth highest summit.

As I’d been this way before in thick mist, what I really wanted was the views down into the Garbh Corrie, so as the mist was closing in again on this occasion, it wasn’t too much of a Heartbreaker for me when the Knee suggested quite strongly that it would prefer to be resting at Corrour. So I went to get the tea on, whilst Frank and Matt went to bag the summits but not the views. Shame, as I can’t say How Many More Times i might get back there.

Another bothy evening. Food, tea, wine, a bright fire, convivial conversation, the company of friends, and of course uisge…….. not to mention the bothy dominoes !!

We were joined by a couple of Aberdeen students, who kept nipping outside (as it seemed) to smoke something which smelled nice, but they didn’t get overly Dazed and Confused and then slumber overtook us all.

Friday was an early morning with a big plan. Matt proposed going back up the “stairway” path and taking high ground to make a circuit of Monadh Mor and Beinn Bhrotain.

As I’d already been there twice before – and with smashing stories attached to each occasion- I felt free to listen to my Knee instead, and chose a leisurely 4 -hour stroll down the infant River Dee via Chest of Dee waterfalls

A nice Chest

and White Bridge to Linn of Dee car park. As there was a little of What Is And What Should Never Be – ie bothy rubbish – I could happily carry out a couple of bags. So it was “Babe, I’m Gonna Leave You” for a walk by the river In The Light of the early morning. I saw no-one, heard little but running water, for the first 3 hours, and remembered the various and hilarious Good Times Bad Times which we had hereabouts.

We had made some good estimates of time, and Frank and Matt turned up at the car park in the afternoon, just as expected. No Communication Breakdown, so with all of us well satisfied and the Munros bagged, off we set for Glen Shee and England once more

Thanks for a good couple of days guys. I didn’t plan any of that, but I’m Easily Led
ANDREW

Skye 2010

The YMC motley crew of Kate, Guy, Chris, Matt and myself met at a friends cottage at Camus Cross on the Sunday evening. Kate having come via Mallaig on her bike and Matt, Chris and Guy via Ciste Dhubh in Glen Shiel.

Monday

The plan was to head on to the Cuillin and see what we could do, Sgurr nan Gillian was in clag so we headed south to Glen Brittle hoping for better weather. The trip up to Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda was uneventful apart from Guy and Chris wanting to paint a rather large rock red, the fact that it looked like Postman Pat’s van had nothing to do with it. The top of Sgurr nan Eag was in clag so instead of heading North we headed south across Gars-bheinn and followed the ridge downhill, eventually making our way back to Glen Brittle. We now know where the deer hang out on Skye.

Tuesday

Matt and I headed up to Glen Carron and went for a wander up Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh, we would have had good views if it wasn’t for the snow showers. Mean while Chris, Guy and Kate headed up the Bhasteir gorge with the intention of playing on Sgurr nan Gillian and Am Bhastier unfortunately they found themselves in low cloud and ended up slightly misplaced so they bailed out to the Slig, good idea.

Wednesday

Matt, Kate and myself went back to Glen Carron and played on Maol Chean-dearg, good day out with more snow showers. Chris and Guy, not to be put of by the weather went back onto the Cuillin and managed to get from Sgurr nan Gillian down to Bruach na Frithe with a couple of abseils off of some big pointy things. Nice one guy’s.

Thursday

Day off, Kate went kayaking with Gordon Brown and some seals, I wandered up to Portree and the rest visited the mainland. The local hostelry was visited in the evening for food and one or five pints consumed, don’t mention the wood !

Friday

Matt went back to Glen Shiel and bagged a few more Munro’s, Carn Ghluasaid, Sgurr nan Conbhairean and Sail Chaorainn. The rest of us headed up to the Inn Pinn with Guy and Chris intending to head north and possibly bivvy on the ridge. Needless to say the weather wasn’t nice so Kate and I turned round at about 900m and left the racing snakes to it. Having eaten that night in the cottage the call was then received from Guy, Plan B, so we met the snakes at the Slig. They had done the Pinn and headed north getting as far as An Dorus in the clag and decided that a bivvy was not the best idea so headed down to the Slig.

Saturday

Chris and Guy had a leisurely stroll up Bla Bheinn, Kate went for a spin on her bike and Matt and I went for a wander around Beinn Fhada.

Sunday – home time after a quick clean of the cottage.
Good time had by all, Matt and I managed a few more ticks off of that big list and Chris and Guy have their eyes on completing the ridge next year and Kate found out that everything starts at sea level. Good company, some excellent cooking and the odd drop of alcohol.

Items found, 2 slings, pair of gloves and a pair of poles. Items lost ….. better ask Matt about that.

Role on next year

Frank