"TEN YEARS AFTER"


Landmarks in the Cairngorms



Friday 31st January 1997

Mike Spence threw teddy out bigtime at the mention of climbing. Clearly he had Other Plans, so to calm things down, Tenk, me and OnePara agreed to go to Braemar. After about 3 pints in the Fife Arms, we shouldered big bags and set off after closing time for the hour's walk by headtorch,  from Linn of Dee into the Cairngorms, to camp by Bob Scott's bothy at Derry Lodge. (The bothy itself being full of merrymakers).









Friday 16th February 2007

Ten years later, the climbing decision was dictated by shrinking snowfields, and this felt like a good weekend for the business we had left unfinished way back then. Tenk, I., and Paul just had a single pint at the Fife, and on a very dark night, walked to Bob Scott's (full again) and put up our tent.



It turned out Spence's Plan, was the Munros of Beinn Bhrotain and Monadh Mhor ------high and remote. For reasons unfathomable to this day, it was decreed that instead of walking west towards them, we should first go south up the lesser hill of Sgor Mor (831 metres), then drop right down again, cross the River Dee (no bridge), before starting on Beinn Bhrotain. This would add 2 kilometres and 400 metres to an already sizeable day (for January) of 25K and 1000m. And the weather was worsening from the west. By the time we were on Sgor Mor we met the mist. As we crossed the Dee the cloudbase dropped. Most of the ascent of Beinn Bhrotain was by compass bearing. On its snow-covered summit plateau, visiblity was 50 metres, and we had to do a sweep search for the Trig point, which was mostly buried in deep snow. The wind blew hard and it began to snow. In this incipient blizzard at 1157 metres, we needed to escape.  The flank of the hill is steep rocky cliffs. No way down. The blizzard blew in.  A cricial compass bearing and 15 minutes anxious struggle into the wind, took us eventually to the only feasible way off the mountain, a narrow col befor Monadh Mor, and we scuttled down to the (comparative) safety of Glen Geusachan. The afternoon light was now fading as we began the long tramp of 9 kilometres back to the bothy, reached an hour after dark. Leaving Monadh Mor unvisited









Paul, Tenk and I returned that 9 kilometres across the south end of the Lairig Ghru and into Glen Geusachan, after an 8.30 start in sunny & mild weather. Below the col, we struck off to vary the route up a rocky rib, finishing up a snowfield which took us 1000 feet up onto Bhrotain's plateau. The snow was soft at 1050 metres, which told us all we needed to know about the climbing prospects. These are remote hills, and our time to the summit of the first one, was about 1.00 pm -  5 hours going. At least we could (largely) see,  this time, although the cloud had built up and occasionally wreathed the summit.



Now for the Unfinished Business............Monadh Mor.

Down to the col. The wind picking up a bit, bright sunshine, but cloud gathering and the wind shifted to the north-west. Up the other side onto the next plateau at 1100 metres. The summit is a 2 km walk along this high ridge, and as we strode along the snow, Monadh Mor gave us a brief reminder of our earlier troubles. We could see the summit cairn, but 400 metres away, the cloud rolled in with wind and light hail. Quickly lay the poles on the ground, pointing at the disappearing cairn, then take a compass bearing along the poles into the mist. Finding the summit, we needed to find a way down, avoiding cliffs. Back to the compass, and pacing and timing for a kilometre north, we changed bearing 20 degrees to drop clear of crags onto a lochain, where the outlet led back down to the glen. Monadh was my 250th, so a bit of a landmark then.



Back down Glen Geusachan in the late afternoon. Across the Lairig Ghru, young Paul (still a trifle fit after Mount McKinley) could not resist the impulse to take in Carn a' Mhaim. Another heavy squall swept by, turning briefly to snow as it began to go dark. Behind the weather, it was much colder, and Richard and I arrived back at Bob Scott's bothy about 6.30, (after just 10 hours) with snow pellets frozen onto our rucksacks.

There was a good fire already. We ate three courses and coffee, and wine. More people arrived, including a young lady with her father, carrying a guitar. Singing by the fireside. 15 people and very warm. Her father Kenny is heavily involved with the local Mountain Bothies Association (MBA) group and was one of the team responsible for the original building Bob Scott's and the re building in June 2005. (See www.mountainbothies.org.uk for more information about the Mountain Bothies Association.)

After such a satisfying day, Paul and I quit the hut to gaze in awe at the clear sky and stars glowing radiantly from the heavens. We stood comfortably by the river bank in our duvet jackets, whisky in hand, and discussed the Universe.



18th February 2007

The tent was literally frozen stiff, but we looked out to a cloudless blue sky.

The hardest bit was forcing feet into boots which had frozen, then tying the rigid laces. Coffee, cereal and a biscuit, then Paul and I were quickly off to go up Derry Cairngorm (1155 metres). It looks long and high on the map, but there is an excellent path most of the way. In clear, cold and sunny conditions, the pointy summit was an amazing grandstand for all the Grampians.

From Mount Keen, to Lochnagar, to Beinn a'Ghlo, to Brieriach and back east to Ben Avon, we were gazing over about 500 square miles. I realised later this was my last Munro east of the A9, so I had climbed every major summit in that view, and was so privileged to be able to see all of them on this day !

 

Crampons down a steepish snowfield from the summit. Back along the ridge. A light lunch at 800 metres overlooking  the Glen, then down to the bothy again for about 1.30, and started to pack.

Meanwhile Tenk had set off for Carn a'Mhaim, and reappeared shortly for a cup of coffee.

 

Tent and gear all packed up, we walked back easy and satisfied towards Linn of Dee, the Braemar teashop, and England.


Andy