Pembroke has always been a special place for me. A clear break from the winter months of snow and ice back onto sunny rock. Its a combination of the sun, sand and sea which makes it unique. Climbing above a foaming sea, riseing and crashing about the rocks beneath you can only but inspire, awe and also fighten you! The climbing is superbly clean and rough given the constant cleaning and roughenning from the sea, the position both extreme and bold and the atmosphere like nowhere else.
| Given no takers from York I made the journey with friends from manchester for what was to prove and awe inspiring weekend. Now the classics at Pembroke - Lucky Strike, Pleasure Dome amongst others are the bench marks as are climbing in Huntsmans Leap (a razor zawn cutting into the cliff side). Most of these reside in the E grades and are such unobtainable for me. Nevertheless there are still many fine, adveturous and unique routes to be found in the lower grades. | The attraction for me lies in the adventure of sea cliff climbing. Climbs like 'Proposterous Tales' and 'Inner Space' (Both HVS) have a magical and adveturous quality! Take proposterous tales where a headtorch is required! Pitch 1 - traverse to a cave, 2 - climb into the cave and upwards, 3 - Contiue deeper and top out in a blow hole 30yds from the cliff face!! | |||
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Day
1
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Went to Bow Shaped Slabs. I've been here a few times before and always enjoyed climbing here. Fantasitic slab climbing around the HS grade! |  |
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| Following
on from this we headed to Bullslaughter Bay ....somewhere
I've not climbed at before but looking quite entertaining. This
consists of a bay with a sea stack and some really excellent slab
climbs around the VS grade. The bay is tidal
so beware!! We finished of the day on Flimston Slabs ...only a V Diff but excellent all the same and made more exciting by the hanging belay and approaching tide! |
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The day was finished off by a huge BBQ party with flame dancing, diablo and cricket! |
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| Day 2 | The day dawned dry but slighly overcast. Having looked at this area previously I was keen to actually get some climbing done here. 'Battleship Buttress'. | Access to this buttress was via a free
abseil onto a ledge, with the sea roaring beneath you this proved to be
rather intimidating, but a small swing brough you
to land soundly on the ledge. |
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| Getting to the climbs involved a walk
through a through cave to another hidden
buttress. |
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The routes here were extremely sharp, hard limestone ......as demonstrated by some of the routes! 'To fondle a hedgehog' VDiff, 'Spikey Norman' HS and 'Waggledance' HS |
After all this excitement, time for tea and ice cream at Ye Oldy Worlde Cafe, possibly the finest cafe in the Worlde. |
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| Day
3 |
Day
three dawned spectacularly sunny!! |
It was decided to try a new area near Tenby that had some spectacular slab climbs. Our first route was 'Sea Tube', a fantastic adventure up a blowhole. Only accesible at low tide it is reached by abseil and 'swinging' onto a small ledge underneath the 'tube'! Carry on up into blackness before popping into sunlight at a window. Back into the tube for another wriggle before poping out into the sun ...awesome!! |
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The
second and last route of the day involved another exciting abseil down
a hole into a sea cave which then opened out
onto the beach! A quick scramble got me to the bottom of a magnificent slab. The route traversed about 10m along the bottom before climbing up the left side. the climbing was fantastic although the gear a little spaced at times. |
The route was about HS, though I can't remember the name at the moment. Afetr topping out in the sun we decided to end on a high and head for Tenby and a well earned ice cream on the beach!! |
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....and rember guys............... |
..........Go climbing more than you do at the moment!!!!!!!! come
to Pembroke this summer & embrace the power of the Stoat!
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