The alps are the logical progession from winter mountaineering. High peaks encompassing rock, snow, mixed and ice skills.
Although fortunately much warmer and more likely to get you that sun tan!
| Where to go? There are many areas of the alps in which to climb. The Ecrin offers some excellent climbs of moderate difficulty. However Chamonix is by far the most famous offering a huge choice of routes from Valley cragging right through to 4000m peaks. This is probably the most developed area and the easiset place to start an alpine career. |
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How to get there? The easiest way is to head to Chamonix in the French alps. This can be done by coach and Eurostar but by far the easiset way is to fly into Geneva Airport in Switzerland. I can recommend Newcastle Airport as being an excellent departure airport, mainly for reasonable car parking, accessibility from York and excellent public transport links. When in Geneva there are several options. Take the train, about £28 return but involving three changes and getting into Geneva centre. For the lazy there are taxis or dedicated airport transfer services which can be fairly economical if you are part of a large group. Alpybus has been slated on UKC so probably one to avoid. If flight times allow the easiset and most reliable service is the French Mont Blanc SAT coach service. This is approximately £38 return, is direct and takes only 2 hours. |
When to go? There has been lost of debate on this! In light of global warming (see later) it is probably better to head out earlier in the season than traditional. June probably being the optimum time. It depends on what kind of routes you wish to do but the key is for the snow to have melted enough to make getting to routes easier but also to ensure that there is sufficient snow to enable routes to be done. |
Where to stay? Traditionally Brits have camped at Argentiere 20mins down the Valley from Chamonix. This is in no small part to the Conville Courses which are run from there, (see later). There are of course campsites in Chamonix and Gites (or dormataries), spread throughout the valley. The vagabond in owned by a welsh and scotsman and is very popular with Brits, located in Chamonix. I have stayed at a french owned one which was very good and had a more international flavour! |
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Lifts The lifts are what makes alpine climbing so easy. From Chamonix (1200m apperox) to the Augille du midi (3800 approx) in 25minutes. .... and no its not cheating. If you want to slog up 2600m of harsh ascent be my guest but you will be exhausted for the route and it will increase your chances of failure. Its the route not the peak which is what its all about! |
Getting around Chamonix has fantastic facilities for visitors not only in Winter but also summer. Any visitor staying in the valley is entitled to a tourist card. This gets you free bus travel and train travel within the valley. The excepetion being the night buses. |
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| Climbing at Altitiude Climbing above 3000m and you will begin to feel the effects of altitude. Basically to aclimatise fast you should climb high sleep low. Although a night spent up high will be a good way to kick start the process. Don't underestimate the effects of this. A good way is to beast yourself on something like cosmiques and then head down on the relative safety of the lift! |
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Conville Courses Jonathon Conville was from a weathy familey and died whilst mountaineering. His familey set up the Conville trust in his memory. This provided alpine training for young people to get out into the alps and is exceptional value fro money and trains you in invaluable skills such as crevasse rescue. |
Crevasses With the exception of dealing with altitude, crevasses and the remaining unknown hazards for winter climbers wishing to become alpinists. These are formed by the brittleness of the ice and can be up to 50m deep and many m wide. You should know where to expect crevasses given the topography and how to rescue your partner from one should you be unlucky enough to fall in! You should always move with alpine coils on glacial terrain. |
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French Guides French guides have a reputation for being ruthless. I have heard alarming stories of guides unhooking others gear, not allowing other parties to overtake and overtaking other parties in dubious cicumstances. It would be unfair to suggest all french guides are like this but you have been warned. |
Timing Keeping to guidebook time is extremely important. You may be standing on a galcier (ice) but it gets extremely hot in the sun. On some routes it can be extremely hazardous to be on a snow slope when the sun toches it. Avalunches and rockfall can result very quickly. Try to keep to guidebook time and be sensible with route plans. It is often best to try to summit at sunrise. 3am starts are not unusual!! |
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| Global Warming Global warming is here to stay. recent collapses of classc routes (ie the Bonatti pillar on the Drux) and this years closure of the Mattorhorn may well be signs of what is to come. Permafrsot if what glues the rocks together. In the recent extremely hot summers this begins to melt, even at altitude causing huge rockfalls. Be wary and plan your trip timing and route timing with care! |
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Suncream Don't forget it and make sure its at least factor 40+. Remember that you may be at altitude where the atmosphere gives you less protection. Your on a glacier which reflects the sunlight. make sure all exposed areas are covered and that means nose, undernaeth chin eas and definitely your nostrils! |
Sunglasses Sunlight reflects on Glaciers so take sunglasses! If not your eyes will be in pain and you could suffer snow blindness. The shops will try and sell you cat4 glasses but cat 3 are fine and you can still wear these to drive in legally! |
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Hydration It is imporatnt to keep up fluid intake. You cannot possibly carry all that you will need so refil where possible and carry a stove to melt snow if required. |
Overnight Bivi To undertake most high altitude routes will require two days (+ a rest day). One for the walk in and one for the route. You can staty in the alpine huts which are comfortable and supply good food and save you carrying extra equipment >> |
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For those on a limited budget it may be cheaper to bivi. This requires
a sleeping bag, bivi bag, stove, food etc to be carried in addition. One way of mitigating this is to stash bivi gear if the route is circular from the bivi spot. You can also bivi in the Midi station in the stairwell which is warm and convenient! A 5* bivi place. Although i have found caves which also rate highly. Take care to ensure any bivi spot is protected from stonefall or you may be rudely awakwakend. |
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| Photography Great photo's are easy in the alps. The best light is early morning just before sunrise or sunset. The front picture of the website is from my first trip to the Alps and sums up mountaineering for me! |
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Finally Expect to be thirsty, hungry, damp, tired, aching, cold and exhaused after completing a route. ...and if not ....what the hell have you been doing? |
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.....I lost a stone in weight after my last trip! |
| PS:
If going into Cham for a drinking session, Happy hour is 5pm till 7pm.
Good Luck!! |
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