Stanage by train...

Four intrepid explorers (well me, Magic, Seb and house mate Valerie) set off for a day to Stanage on the train, with high hopes of beautiful sunshine and pleasurable, warm grit…..

Arriving on the rather small 257 bus, full of bimblies and a man wearing a skirt (really) at the Popular End, we bimbled up to the edge in the hazy sunshine. Got us gear on and decided that I would do the first lead on Manchester Buttress (HS 4b, 3*); a superb looking route. Starting off on a fine, laybacking crack up to the first break, gear in, traverse left, up to second break, a good friend in, then heaven!!! Wonderful, gorgeous fist – jams, all the way around the break, traversing right around the awkward arete (crux) for a direct finish. The pain was exquisite. Much to the displeasure of Rich, who did a fine second, with Seb coming up on the loose end. I cannot wait to do this route again…

We shuffled across a few yards to do Sociology (S 4a). A nice route up a slabby type climb, directly up the middle, with sound nut protection in narrow, horizontal breaks. Rich took the lead this time (thought I’d give him an easy one ;) ) and followed the thin crack straight up the middle, to an easier, upper section. Seb did a nice second in style. And congrats to Valerie, for doing her first ever climb half on Sociology, and the remainder on Anatomy (Vdiff) on the right side. A great effort in slippery, bendy shoes!!

Quick brew and a sarnie followed. Did I mention the sun has disappeared? And that it became very windy, cold and claggy. Bloody weather!! Still, the grit was lovely.
We moved into Black Hawk area, which was very busy, but lucky for me there was a nice HS beckoning me in the corner; Castle Crack (HS 4b, 2*). Again, starting up a thin, lay back type crack (depends on your style, I guess), which was pretty steep overhead with a slight overhang. Became awkward here and I felt more comfy on the harder HS. Rich came up next, taking out my nuts, to finish at the top!! Up ya come Seb!!

Last route was Black Hawk Traverse Left (VDiff, 2*). Seb being a sport type, uber-clipper of bolt-ons, was a bit nonplussed when it came to placing gear, bless! He set off, when Rich gave him about 20 nuts, for that extra security;) Up he went, to the right, stretching across Bishops Stride, then after this decided on a random route to the top..hehe.


Rich was doing his usual 'above ground speliology' exploring and found a fantastic bivi spot (below)!


We finished up and walked down to the road, to hear Rich shout “Bugger ... the bus is coming” We must have looked a sight, running as fast as we could still half with gear on, down to the carpark!!! Thanks for stopping driver; you saved us a trek to Hathersage!

Packed train back to York, abuse from a teenager with angst, quick pint and back home. Thanks guys for a fantastic day.

see y’all Thursday.

Elton