The Way From Earth to Heaven

On Wednesday 11th October, my final day in South Africa, I was picked up by my guide, Gosia, at 8am and we made the winding drive up to the cable car station at the foot of Table Mountain, Cape Town. 



Table Mountain
Our goal was a 110m classic multi-pitch trad route called Jacob’s Ladder (Grade 16 – UK equivalent HVS 5b) on Fountains face, just under the top cable car station, which at that time of the day was in shadow and looked dark and very imposing.  I was really quite nervous as, if the grade conversion was accurate, then I was in for the hardest climb of my life.  But Gosia assured my I would be fine and as I would be seconding, I thought it couldn’t be that hard…mmm. 


Table Mountain with Fountains face in shadow

Our approach path was via the India-Venster path which was an unrelentingly steep direct path, containing several sections of Grade 1& 2 level scrambling, to Fountains Ledge, the start of the climb.  The face was still in shadow when we got there which provided a welcome relief from the already hot day.  We geared up and after an initial short pitch under a huge overhang (see picture) and a traverse left, we reached the start of the second pitch at a good tree belay. 



Looking up the first pitch Me about the start the 2nd pitch

The first pitch was relatively straightforward, the rock was good and I felt nice and safe as the second behind someone who did the route regularly - ‘more times than I can remember’ was her quote!  The second pitch was the one I was slightly nervous about – the guide book said ‘climb the over-hanging crack’ which, given that I’m not great at either overhangs or cracks, didn’t bode well.  The reality was, for once, exactly as the guide book described, and, with the butterflies in my stomach in full flight and a lot of grunting, I managed to climb it.



Me coming out of the top of the overhanging crack!

Then followed the airiest traverse I have ever done which took us into the sun, over the edge of the huge overhang we had climbed under and around and to the start of the huge, white rock wall that lends the climb its’ name and leads straight up to the top.  Jacob was a biblical character who saw a ladder leading from earth to heaven in a vision and I could see now why the climbers who named the route chose this.  The first ascent was in 1952 by members of the MCSA (Mountain Club of South Africa) who said "Jacob's Ladder seemed to be a good name for a climb, and we decided to set about finding a climb for it; one of a high standard and worthy of the name."



Just before the traverse

This wall was 3 pitches of utterly stunning climbing.  Beautiful steep sandstone, hard moves, positive holds (mostly), gorgeous weather, views of Cape Town and the Atlantic and all either vertical or just off-vertical (on the over-hanging side of things).  Gosia let me lead the middle pitch too which was incredible and definitely the hardest lead I have done.

 


Starting up the wall from the traverse Steep, juggy climbing at it’s best!

After another 2 hanging belays, we topped out (with some jubilant whooping from me), scrambled up the final section and jumped over the barrier to surprise some tourists who were quietly admiring the view.



Topping out with Lions Head in the background

After a late lunch, we managed to sweet-talk the ‘Abseil Africa’ guys, who were happily lowering paying tourists off the mountain, who let us use their rope to get back to Fountains Ledge.  We then headed back down the India-Venster path (down-climbing the scramble sections – great fun honest!...not) to arrive back at the car tired, thirsty (2 litres wasn’t enough!) but elated.

 

Absolutely incredible.  Worthy of it’s world classic status.

 

Tracey

 

PS  For a photo of the top wall, see:

 http://www.summitpost.org/route/156018/jacob-s-ladder.html